Day 8: University of Rwanda Cultural Exchange

Day 8 was centered around the University of Rwanda in Butare. One of the most meaningful days of the trip. We spent the day in a cultural exchange with biology students on campus, and the conversations that came out of it were the kind you keep turning over.

The original University of Rwanda building, built during the Belgian colonial period
The original University of Rwanda building, built during the Belgian colonial period

The Exchange

The format was informal, which helped. We sat with the students, asked questions, talked about our respective academic work. The students were sharp and welcoming and genuinely curious. The kind of conversation that happens when both sides show up interested in the other.

The conversation that hit hardest came from one student in particular. He pulled me aside and told me he had survived the genocide. He was six years old in 1994. He lost ten immediate family members. He was still a child and nearly his entire family was gone in a matter of weeks.

What struck me most was not just the weight of it, but that he wanted to tell me. He said he wanted to connect with people outside Rwanda, to share survivor stories. He asked to exchange emails and stay in touch. I kept thinking about it afterward — here was someone who had every reason to turn inward, and he was doing the opposite. Studying biology, building a life, asking a stranger to help carry part of his story forward. I said yes.

Ildephonse and Mike posing together after lunch at the University of Rwanda
Ildephonse and Mike posing after lunch

Vervet Monkeys on Campus

The campus also had a very healthy population of vervet monkeys. They were everywhere. Mothers carrying babies clinging to their undersides or riding on their backs. The juveniles were a highlight — some of them had entered that phase where they needed to look tough. Puffing up, making faces, trying to intimidate. Not convincing. Small and scrappy and deeply committed to a performance nobody was buying. Reminded me of middle schoolers trying to seem older than they are.

Vervet monkey walking on the grass on the University of Rwanda campus, looking directly at the camera
A vervet monkey on the grass on campus, staring right at the camera
Vervet monkey mother with baby and grooming female in the university arboretum
Vervet monkey mother with baby and grooming female in the arboretum
Baby vervet monkey attempting an intimidation display
A baby vervet monkey attempting an intimidation display

The Arboretum

Also had time in the university arboretum, which houses over 400 plant species. Beautiful, quiet, well-maintained. Nice contrast to the social intensity of the morning. The university clearly takes pride in it.

Vervet monkey posing in the 400-species arboretum at the University of Rwanda
A vervet monkey posing in the 400-species arboretum

Three-hour drive to the next destination after the campus visit. Plenty of time to sit with the day. Some experiences on this trip have been about places. This one was about a person. Those are the ones that stick.

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Michael Eisinger

Michael Eisinger

Program manager, nonprofit founder, and LGBTQ+ travel writer based in Silver Spring, MD. I’ve spent over a decade managing programs across nonprofit, healthcare, and medical education — and another decade finding out where the bears go. I write about travel that’s real, destinations that are genuinely queer-friendly, and the places that changed how I see things.