Day 15: Boats, Cars, and Volcanoes
Another day that covered a lot of ground, both on water and on the road. Lake Kivu in the morning, a site connected to one of the most well-known films about gorilla conservation in the afternoon, and drumming with Twa musicians to close it out. Rwanda keeps finding ways to surprise me.
Lake Kivu and the Hot Springs
Morning started with a boat ride out to a tiny island on the lake — barely more than a rocky outcrop — then continued to a spot where natural hot springs feed into the lake along the shore. Water warm, volcanic hills rising up behind, the whole thing gorgeous in that particular Lake Kivu way.
What made the hot springs stop stick was the kids who showed up while we were there. A group of children came down and started rinsing their hands using leaves from nearby plants — using them almost like soap. Small moment. Ordinary routine in this specific place. The kind of window into daily life here that you don't usually get as someone just passing through.
The Gorillas in the Mist Connection
Later in the day, we visited an orphanage featured in the film "Gorillas in the Mist." If you've seen the movie, this is the location associated with Dian Fossey's work in the region. The orphanage itself has changed over the years, but there's something about standing in a place with that history attached to it. Our guide gave us context on the site and its connection to both the film and the broader story of gorilla conservation in this part of Rwanda.
Drumming with the Twa
Day ended at a Twa village where local musicians welcomed us with drumming. The Twa are one of Rwanda's three traditional groups, with a long history and deep cultural traditions that often get overlooked in conversations about the country.
The drumming was layered and fast and the musicians were clearly having as much fun as we were. They invited us to join in at some point. Not going to claim I had any natural talent, but I gave it an honest effort and the musicians were gracious enough to keep smiling. There's a particular kind of presence that comes from music when it's this physical — drums you can feel in your chest. You stop thinking about the itinerary and just exist in the moment for a while.
Heading toward Volcanoes National Park territory now. Things are about to get interesting.
